Have you ever wondered why, in the heat of Tamil Nadu, where one might expect people to reach for something cool and refreshing, they instead start their day with a steaming cup of coffee? This love for coffee, deeply ingrained in Tamil culture, is not just about taste—it's a story of social aspiration, cultural transformation and the subtle pressures that shape our daily lives.
A New Aroma in the Air
In the late 19th century, the aroma of coffee was foreign to Tamil households. Coffee, though introduced to India in the 17th century, was largely a European indulgence, its rich, bitter scent wafting only through the homes of British officers and a select few Indian elites. But as the British influence spread, so did their habits. Among the first to adopt this new drink were the Brahmin elites, who had close ties with the colonial administration. For them, sipping coffee wasn't just about enjoying a beverage; it was about signaling their modernity and closeness to the ruling class.
As the Brahmin community embraced coffee, it set off a chain reaction. The Tamil middle class, always eager to climb the social ladder, saw in coffee a chance to emulate the elite. What started as a beverage became a symbol of status and sophistication. Coffee was no longer just a drink; it was a statement.
The Brewing of Peer Pressure
By the early 20th century, the aroma of coffee had spread far beyond the homes of the elite. But it wasn't just the taste or the caffeine that made coffee so popular; it was the peer pressure. The middle class, striving to distinguish themselves, began to adopt coffee drinking as a marker of their social standing. It was a way to show that they, too, were modern, sophisticated, and in tune with the times.
The British, seeing an opportunity, commercialized coffee cultivation, particularly in Mysore. While most of the coffee was exported to Europe, a small but growing local market began to develop in South India. However, coffee remained expensive, and its association with the Brahmin class meant it was initially out of reach for the lower classes. This only heightened its allure. The more unattainable it was, the more people wanted it.
Many coffee hotels in Tamil Nadu, primarily run by Brahmins and Chettiars, began creating exclusive spaces reserved for the elite class, a practice that starkly highlighted the caste and societal divisions of the time, as it openly discriminated against the labor class, reinforcing the deeply ingrained social hierarchies of the era.
By the 1920s, coffee had become more than just a drink—it was a social rite. Serving coffee to guests was a way to show hospitality, a gesture that said, "You are welcome here." Coffee houses, once the domain of the elite, became places where people from all walks of life could gather, converse and share ideas.
Literature mirrored this cultural shift, with many short stories portraying coffee drinking as a social ritual. In stories from the 1930s, coffee was used as a metaphor to convey strong and compelling ideas. Tamil readers will undoubtedly recall Pudhumaipithan’s famous story “Kadavulum Kandhasaamipillaiyum,” where Kandhasaamipillai takes the Almighty to a coffee shop and chastises him for favoring the chicory blend coffee. This narrative vividly underscores the profound influence coffee had on Tamil society.
Coffee and Cultural Resistance
Despite its growing popularity, coffee faced opposition from conservatives who viewed it as a cultural corruption. They feared that the western influence, symbolized by coffee, threatened the purity of Tamil culture. Critics worried that women becoming coffee addicts could spoil societal norms.
A Gandhian follower even complained to Gandhiji about Chennai women’s coffee-drinking habits, criticizing how this “bad habit” had become a major obstacle to the non-cooperation movement. He noted that these women, who proudly consumed three cups of coffee daily, were letting their addiction interfere with their commitment to the cause.
Author A.R. Venkatachalapathy said the increasing demand for milk then due to the coffee craze, led milkmen to overmilk their cows, often leaving calves to starve. In the Gurukula run by Vaa. Vae. Subramania Iyer, there was a ban on tea and coffee. Some Gandhian followers even criticized coffee as "toddy" due to its addictive nature.
While talking about coffee, one might wonder what Tamil people used to have for breakfast before this beverage became a morning ritual. It was
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Despite these concerns, coffee's popularity only grew. In Tamil literature and advertisements, coffee became a symbol of hospitality and warmth. The image of a woman serving coffee to guests in a coffee advertisement and former comedian actor Usilai Mani’s famous line, 'Besh! Besh! Romba Nalla iruku,' (பேஷ்! பேஷ்! ரொம்ப நல்லா இருக்கு!) in the Narasus Coffee ad both became iconic, symbolizing the modern Tamil household and the timeless value of hospitality.
The Art of Coffee Making
The process of making coffee itself became a cultural ritual. Initially, people struggled to make coffee properly, often drinking only the strong and bitter decoction. The upper caste middle class also defined the perfect coffee blend, a standard that remains preferred today. Coffee powder making or buying became routine in the Tamil households.
The art of making filter coffee—using the perfect blend of freshly ground beans, the right amount of milk, and just the right touch of sugar—became a skill to be mastered. Unique to Tamil Nadu, coffee was served in a small lipped brass bowl with a brass tumbler, known as the "davarah set," allowing people to drink without sipping directly, reflected the prevailing customs of untouchability in Tamil Nadu during that era.
Coffee made with cow's milk was considered top-quality, while coffee with buffalo milk was seen as inferior. The "degree coffee" from Tanjore and Kumbakonam regions became famous, a legacy that continues even now with highway hoardings advertising degree coffee every 200 meters.
Enjoying the first decoction, presented in the classic davarah set with its rich aroma and creamy froth, and savoring that initial slow sip, became a beloved morning tradition of excellence. The ritualistic approach to coffee was not just about taste; it was about creating a moment of perfection in the chaos of everyday life. A perfect cup of coffee became a source of pride, a small but significant achievement that started the day on the right note. The best coffee with the first decoction was reserved for the male breadwinners, a depiction of the gender norms of the time, while the rest of the family made do with the second decoction.
Morning coffee holds significant importance in starting the day for Tamil households. For many, it has become an addiction, with some even reporting headaches if they skip their morning cup. The writer community, in particular, favored coffee, often taking frequent breaks to keep their creativity flowing.
Coffee as a Social Rite
As the 1940s rolled around, the landscape began to change. The Coffee Board of India was formed to promote domestic production and regulate prices. Coffee, once a luxury, began to trickle down to the masses. The middle class, now able to afford it, embraced coffee with open arms, cementing its place in Tamil culture.
However, the upper-caste middle class also dictated how coffee should be consumed. Slowly sipping coffee became the norm, a practice that conferred social respect and marked one's adherence to the cultural standards of the time. Those who mastered the art of coffee drinking were seen as refined, while those who didn't were subtly nudged towards conformity.
The journey of coffee in Tamil Nadu is more than just the story of a beverage; it's the story of a society in transition. From a European curiosity to a symbol of Tamil identity, coffee's evolution reflects the complex interplay of social aspiration, cultural resistance and the subtle pressures that shape our lives. Today, a cup of coffee in a Tamil household is not just a drink—it's a legacy, a ritual and a reflection of a cultural journey that spans over a century. And when we brew coffee with these rich memories, how can we forget tea, another beloved beverage in Tamil Nadu? Well, that’s a story for another day.
